Kayaking the African Coast, Wine Country, and Tribal Culture

What is better to round out a day than penguins and cheetahs? Today we had a close encounter with South African wildlife and nature. This morning we were up at 5 AM to gather all of our things and check out of the hotel. By 6 AM we were once again hurrying toward Simon’s Town. Yesterday we were planning to kayak but the winds were just too high so our kayaking guide, Derek, agreed to meet us at 7 AM near Boulders Beach. As soon as we pulled in we saw him waiting for us with kayaks at the ready. Carmin and Doug paired up as did Dan and I. I had never ocean kayaked before (outside of the ultra calm biobay in Puerto Rico) so this was definitely a fun workout. The area was so beautiful and appropriately named as smooth gray boulders lined the beach and jutted from the water. The best part, however, was that we got to see a colony of penguins from the water! After we kayaked we got out of the water and walked over for a closer view. They were so adorable and fun to watch. We also saw hyrax, which are furry animals that look like gigantic gerbils and they’re genetically closest to elephants of all animals.

We headed to the wine region known as Stellenbosch (meaning Stel’s Bush, named after Simon Van der Stel) for lunch where there are over 300 wineries. After a short bike ride we dined at Lapa Restaurant on the Knorhoek wine estate. Beautiful oak trees rose above our tables and we were surrounded by African architecture with thatched roofs and exposed beams. The countryside here is probably some of the most spectacular I’ve ever seen. Giant mountains rise in the distance and lush, green rolling vineyards stretch out to meet towering oaks as far as the eye can see. We stopped by Neil Ellis winery for a tasting. Carmin’s favorite was the Elgin Chardonnay. Personally, I couldn’t get past the breathtaking scenery. As much as I love the wine trails in Texas and New York, nothing I have seen even comes close to this splendor.

After our tasting, Carmin surprised us by taking us to pet cheetahs! The organization responsible for the program is Cheetah Outreach. Their mission is to help the endangered cheetah population by informing the public and collecting funds to support breeding and protection efforts. For instance, farmers often see cheetahs as pests and shoot them. Cheetah Outreach breeds South African Anatolian Shepherd dogs as guard dogs (as they just bark and growl to scare the cheetahs away) and gives them to farmers along with vet care and food for a year completely free. They really are beautiful animals and when we pet them they purred just like big cats.

We had a couple of hours of down time after our cheetah encounter and I took the opportunity to shower, read, and rest. Dinner tonight was at Moyo. It was fabulous. The restaurant is unlike anything I’ve experienced. First of all, it is completely outdoors save for some areas which are covered by canvas canopies or tents. There are exotic game dishes of all kinds as well as veal, seafood, and chicken served buffet style. The atmosphere is so lively! Roving musicians, drummers, story tellers, and face painters visit all the different tables – some of which are ground level and others which are built high in the air on large platforms like a sort of tree house. The music and clothing were very tribal and represented all of Africa, though the meals were strictly based on South African cuisine. At one point in the night after the sun had gone down and the sky was a dark navy, a trio of singers were at our table and a gentle breeze blew through the air. I closed my eyes and really felt that we were in Africa and experiencing the wonder, richness, and beauty of the culture. Tonight is our last night in the Cape Town area - we leave for safari in the morning! Here is to hoping for good animal viewing.

Your Questions Answered:

Q: Is this [the Gold of Africa Museum] the same venue that does the Mali puppet theatre that I have heard about?

A: Jan, I asked Carmin about Gold of Africa Museum being the same one as where the the Mali puppet theatre takes place and she confirmed that it is, in fact!

Q: Val! asks:
Was the flora as magnificent as I’m hoping?
How did your view of Langa change during your day there?
Did you explain to Dan about your experience with Paella?
When did you have the prawns?
What was it like to have children so excited to hold your hand?
And did they set up the craft cart just for your group?
So is the medicine man legit or more for tourists?
Why were there so many tables outside his shop?
Did they seem to get a lot of tourists/visitors?
Did you specifically see anyone with more than one wife?

A: The flora is magnificent, though the flowers are hardier with sturdier petals than you’re probably thinking. Some are thick and leaf like. The bushes are superior to look at and to touch than our small mesquite scrub brushes but the idea is somewhat similar as they are able to survive in rugged conditions. My view of Langa changed in that I understand the sense of pride the residents have in their culture and how they all care for or respect one another, seemingly regardless of wealth. They have so much love for their culture, in fact, that if they become financially stable enough to purchase a house outside the township, they will keep one in the township so they can go back there to “practice their culture,” as Jimmy said. I did explain the paella situation to everyone. Prawns have been a regular lunch/dinner item here. Speaking of the bbqed animal head, they call it a “Smilie” because the lips pull completely off the teeth when the animal’s face is charred. I loved that name! The excitement of the cihldren was really interesting and heartwarming, but even moreso, I enjoyed seeing Carmin and Dennis happily interact with them. I am not sure if the cart was set up just for us. According to Jimmy, the medicine man is indeed legit. The carts were plentiful outside the shop and they may have been for tourists, but it was also a shopping area for the community, so who can say? Not I! A lot of tourists are interested in going to the Langa township, so they probably get a good number of visitors. I didn’t see any others, however. I also didn’t see anyone with multiple wives, but I don’t think I would know what to look for in the first place.